As we discussed in the last post, it will be necessary to remove the rear fenders so that the latch panel behind the door can be fitted properly. Both the driver's side and passengers side have issues.
Before the fender is removed, we took time to locate the fasteners and braces. In the photo to the right you will notice a lateral brace extending from the frame to the bottom of the fender just behind the tire. This brace was removed first.
Following the removal of the taillight assembly, the bolts securing the fender to the body tub are removed. They are located just below the stainless steel bead inside the wheel well and adjacent to the boot lid seal. We left two of the fasteners loose and in place just to stabilize the fender until it is completely detached.
The rear fender did extended over the taillight mounting surface and appeared to be secured with seam sealer. This was loosened with a few taps of a body hammer and a sharp chisel.
The fender and bead was then removed easily. The process will be repeated on the passenger's side.
Special note...
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Tom McCurry
Tommy's Topless Cars
843-338-2253
The engine and gearbox removal began early this morning. 
The forward connection is provided by the manufacturer.
Yesterday we disconnected all the engine wiring, coolant lines, oil pressure line, water temperature line, clutch slave cylinder and exhaust header pipe. The motor mounts were also disconnected.
After fitting the floating hinge plates, the doors were mounted and adjusted in the opening. 
We began by fabricating two new floating hinge mounting plates for the right side door. This allowed the door to be moved in all directions an additional 3/8". The plates are fitted inside the hinge post and the hinges are fastened to them with the original flat head machine screws. 
In a vintage automobile such as this one, a world of rust and otherwise damaged parts are hidden from view. Not the case with the Sheffield Shuttle. She is in superb condition. Both the right and left front sides of the car have no signs of decay or collision damage. We will clean these areas and coat them with POR 15 (a rust encapsulator) to insure their continued rust free condition.
Following the removal of the front clip, the engine compartment and wheel houses can be more easily assessed for damage.
After spending an hour or so trying to align the doors and front fenders, we determined that the most efficient way was to completely disassemble the front of the car. For whatever reason, there was not enough adjustment in the fender fasteners to achieve proper alignment.
I suppose the last time this car was painted, the original hood attachment mechanism was replaced with "aftermarket" hood pins. Also, the lift assembly had been removed entirely making it very difficult to raise the bonnet. In the photo to the right you will see the mounting hole that was drilled for the installation of the hood pins and the two adjacent holes that were for the attachment of the original Dzus fastener system.
The general condition of the intake and exhaust manifolds is very good. I have decided to bead blast both manifolds. Pictured to the left is the cast iron exhaust manifold.
Now that the carburetors have been detached, the intake and exhaust manifolds are ready for removal and restoration. Hopefully, no stubborn fasteners.
